It feels like a storm is brewing as the waves crash through the shore.
Taking back what was once yours. Crashing, foaming, growing.
Surfers run from miles around. To ride these waves into the ground.
We watch in awe and fantasy. Wondering what it would be like to ride.
A day or two pass us by. The waves are quiet. So is the sky.
Sleepy calm. I think I will swim. Take a surf lesson.
Seems like a good day to begin.